Retracing "PALACE ON WHEELS" train circuit of the desert forts of Rajasthan on a budget adventure travel.

Arrival at JAISALMER STATION and start of the "Forts of Rajasthan" adventure travel. "Jaisalmer Fort " is visible from the station.

Retracing the"Palace on wheels" train route

The Desert and the deep blue sea has been my eternal fascination since childhood. A 24 years Onn/Off employment career in the "Mercantile Merchant Navy" as a "Marine Engineer" on various types of ships fulfilled my fascination as well as travel across oceans, sea's, river's , lake's across the Globe and India. Post premature employment retirement from the "Merchant Navy" at the age of 46 years continued with my passion of travel , investing my own money, logistics and decades experience of sea-faring voyages across different ports in my present luxurious hobby of "SOLO TRAVEL" ..

On train from Mumbai  to Jaisalmer 

Travel is definitely a luxury in India besides the paradox of travel is that most wealthy people either are more engrossed in expanding their wealth and hence have less time for travel while the salaried high income employed class just don't aquire enough leave for leisure travel.In life and living you win some and lose some.

IN THE MORNINING AT APPROX 0715 HRS LOOKING OUT OF THE TRAIN WINDOW SPOTTED BLACK BUCKS,WILD CAMELS,PEACOCKS AND LARGE RAPTOR EAGLE AKIN TO BEING IN THE DESERT NATIONAL PARK

I decided to bust these myths of travel and if a commoner like me could visit 81 country's and almost entire India why couldn't others do the same although should admit that being a "Bachelor" is a advantage as family travel with a wife, parents or kid's is definitely a real luxury.

"Covid-19" check at Jaisalmer station.

In 2003 while still employed in the "Merchant Navy" had visited the "Pushkar Fair" in Rajasthan during holiday leave at a time when both my parents were alive and the same travelogue documented in my previous blog on this same site. Read that travelogue and other travelogues to understand how far i have travelled since quitting the "Merchant Navy" through which i visited a majority of the Country's .

Start of  Rajasthan Forts Odyssey.

Now in 2021 in the time of "COVID-19" pandemic that has created havoc across the Globe and India was revisiting the State of Rajasthan as the eternal solo bachelor nomad. Being a "NOMAD" with no ties to immediate family members except my present resident non human companion cat "Tomcat Matata" and house care-taker Ms Sabina.Dias gives me a little more travel freedom than the average Indian citizen. In life you win some and lose some and celibacy has its advantages as does marriage. Amitabh.Bachchan, Sachin.Tendulkar and Shahrukh.Khan to name a few are household names in India but i am 100 % sure they would love to walk the streets of Mumbai akin to me a common man as they once were before fame and celebrity  made them prisoners of their own success. Ahoy ! Everything in life has a price to pay including "SOLO TRAVEL". Even ascetics would envy at my shoe string budget travels across the Globe, a monk in frugality with a passion for travel. In 2021 the cheapest "Palace on Wheels" luxury train travel in India rated N0 4 in the World cost a Indian traveller approximately Rs 40,000/night on twin sharing basis , the total cost being Rs 2,74,000 for a 7 Nights/8 Days. Would finally be hoping to complete the same "Palace on Wheels" travel route through common trains and buses in March 2021, a travel venture that i first began in November 2003. Ahoy !

"Toffu Safari" my residence in Jaisalmer. Sandstone building.

Friday(5/3/2020) Departure Mumbai :- Boarded the " 02929 Festival Sp Bandra - Jaisalmer " train at Bandra Terminus checking into " S1 ,seat 36" compartment. Departure was punctual at 1215 hrs .A pleasant beginning to the journey with me exchanging a seat  with a Gujarati family on a train picnic  and to my amazement finding the entire block empty of passengers with me the only traveller and a lady and her child occupying the window seats. Lunch of " Mutton Biryani" hamper prepared from home was relished in Royalty style as if the entire small compartment block was booked by me.This luxury of spacious 2nd class seating lasted till Bharuch when the empty seats got occupied and finally at Baroda our entire compartment crowded .Spotted a few Nilgai's(Blue Bulls) on a dry river bed while crossing  over a dry river bed bridge.As usual a almost sleepless night.

JAISALMER FORT WHICH IS ONE OF THE FEW INHABITED FORT'S IN THE WORLD AS SEEN AT NIGHT FROM THE STREET BELOW. FLOODLIGHTS FOCUSSED ON THE FORT GIVE IT A SPECTACULAR AURA AND MYSTIQUE.

"Moong Dal ki Kachori" in Jaisalmer

 Saturday (6/3/2021):- Early morning at approx 0715 hrs about half an hour from " Ramdevra Station " peeping out of the train door  was at the right place at the right time to spot wild camels ,a herd of black bucks, peacocks and a large eagle. It was akin to  being on a Early Morning wild safari in a National park. Wild life sighting requires luck and in just a few fleeting minutes I had seen some of the best natural DESERT wildlife which would cost me time and money if visiting the "Desert National Park" in Jaisalmer.Train reached Jaisalmer at 0945 hrs and a rickshaw taxi took me to " Tohffu Safari " guesthouse charging me a princely Rs 150 for the short ride. Excellent yellow sandstone bungalow building guesthouse as are all the houses and buildings in Jaisalmer and was surprised at the oversupply of hotels, guesthouses and home stays in Jaisalmer city. All the houses and buildings look similar and most have carvings on their facade, the size and quality of the sandstone carvings determining the status and wealth of the house or haveli owner." Covid-19" has ruined the hospitality and tourism industry across the Globe including India. I was the lone guest in this large sprawling bungalow guesthouse akin to a billionaire and young guesthouse manager Mr Amin was helpful in his suggestions regarding the tourist city of Jaisalmer.

Excellent bikes on hire outside Fort

             

Taste "BHANG' in Jaisalmer

Contacted the hotel owner by phone regarding arrangements for a "CAMEL DESERT SAFARI" as no tourist leaves Jaisalmer or Jodhpur without experiencing a authentic camel ride in the Thar desert. In the 20th century Jaisalmer Fort received Global advertisement through a detective novel "Sonar Killa(Golden Fort)" written by legendary film director Satyajit.Ray who later made a film from the novel. As for me it was the "Sunset/Sunrise Camel" advertisements of the Thar desert on T.V and news media that attracted my attention as a nature adventurer and traveller .As for Forts have trekked most of the prominent historic  Forts in India which includes the tough steep inclined Maratha hillfort's in my home State of Maharashtra. The base of the Fort was a short uphill walk from the guesthouse along a narrow dusty road lined with shop's on either side most prominently being "Motorcycle rental" shop's with "Royal Enfield's" on hire and it was hard for me to avoid the temptation of renting a bike at very cheap rates.  On entering the Fort main gate entrance was approached by guides. Honestly being poor in speaking languages i am guilty of bias towards English speaking individuals, male or female and hence preferred guide Mr Harish.Vyas who spoke English .Aren't the majority of us Indian's biased in languages and more comfortable with people speaking our own mother tongue/State language ,

"Suraj Pol" entrance gate to Fort.

National language Hindi or the common link language of the country, English ? Ahoy ! Toured the fort in the afternoon with English speaking guide Mr Harish.Vyas with his fee being Rs 150 .Refreshed my history text book study and Mr Harish(Harry).Vyas was excellent in explaining me the Rajput and Brahmin division of the Fort into two residential half's as also the caste system of Rajasthan. Jaisalmer Fort has 99 bastions and numerous wells within the fort of which some are in use even in 2021. On way to the main citadel had to pass along 4 large gateway's,Akhai Pol,Ganesh Pol, Suraj Pol  and Hawa Pol with guide Harish explaining  me the uniqueness in design of these 4 gateways fitted with spiked wooden doors. All the gates were erected in gradual ascendancy up the inclined hill and if a elephant, the main vehicle of infantry warfare entered the first door then from that end the next door was not visible as it was erected at the end of a curvature along the inclined hill. Brilliant architectural defense construction . The "Rajputs" belonging to the Kshatriya caste are warriors and non-vegetarian in food habits unlike the Brahmins occupying another half of the fort who are strictly vegetarian. Jaisalmer Fort was built from yellow sandstone on Trikuta hill in the midst of the Thar desert in 1156 AD by the Rajput ruler Rawal.Jaisal .

"Hierarchy" :- A living Fort.

The yellow Sandstone gave the fort its nickname "Sonar Quila(Golden Fort)" and in 2013 Jaisalmer Fort along with 5 other forts of Rajasthan was declared a UNESCO heritage site under the group "Hill Forts of Rajasthan". Any tourist visiting India will not leave the country without visiting the city of Agra or a Fort in the State of Rajasthan . Jaisalmer Fort  is one of the few living Forts in the World where for most part of its 850 + years existence the fort itself was Jaisalmer city.The imposing 7 storey's King and Queen's palaces inside the fort partly built over the "Hawa Pol(Fourth Gate) have been converted into museums .The entire fort has a maze of houses, shops and hotels. A few hotels are plush and it's not everyday a commoner gets to reside in a 850 + year old Fort premises so if possible try to stay inside the Fort if young or aged and physically fit since it requires regular trekking which is the only disadvantage as there are no lifts.A unique construction method of this fort as well as the common sandstone buildings in Jaisalmer is that the stones are not joined by a mixture of cement but locked physically by a male/female socket joint.Visited the "JAIN TEMPLES" situated in the "Brahmin Section" of the Fort and open till 1400 hrs.Camera charges were Rs 50.The "JAIN TEMPLES" are 7 in number and were built during the 12th - 16 th century.

At Entrance to "Jain Temples " inside Jaisalmer Fort.

Ceiling of Jain Temple inside Jaisalmer Fort.

Inside "DUSSEHRA CHOWK" courtyard  of Jaisalmer Fort. This courtyard is accessed after crossing the last  "Hawa Pol" gate and was used during Rajput reign for celebrating "Dussehra Festival".. Intricate  design on sandstone walls of  the Marble Throne building through which the ruler observed the Dussehra celebrations.

Hotels, restaurants and tourist handicraft shops exist within Jaisalmer Fort. This is the "Brahmin residential  Section" of the Fort. Resembles a street rather than a Fort building. Jaisalmer Fort is a unbelievable edifice to be seen and experienced through sightseeing.

Last visited the peak of the fort called "CANNON POINT" and from the top of the Fort next to the Cannon it's a beautiful " Bird's Eye view" of the Golden city of Jaisalmer with its yellow sandstone houses and architecture.           

At  "CANNON POINT" on Jaisalmer Fort. The highest point from where a observer gets a excellent "Bird's Eye View" of the "Golden City" of Jaisalmer. This is the "Rajput Section"  residence of the inhabited Fort

Arrival by "SUV" to "Camel Point" for "Camel Safari at "Sam Sand Dunes"

From  "Cannon Point" walked down the Fort and made my exit from this unique living Fort .Out onto the narrow congested road  walked past Sadar Bazaar towards Nathmal Haveli. On the way walking through crowded Sadar Bazaar got a call from the hotel stating they had arranged a overnight camel Safari. I was hoping to take the "Camel Safari" the next day as i was haggard  with a almost sleepless night's train journey besides having now trekked to the peak of "Jaisalmer Fort". We sailors  and  ex-sailors are a different breed of the human species as far as endurance is concerned  and i was testing my physical human limitations to its zenith.

"Camel Safari" at Sam Sand Dunes in the Thar Deset.

If i refused there was no guarantee of getting a "Group Camel Safari" ride the next day as due to "Covid-19"foreign  tourism was almost non-existant  and hence group  camel safari tourism  slack. Hiring a "Solo Camel Safari" would be the equivalent of paying the luxury lifestyle of a Rajput Royalty or billionaire Industrialist.. Agreed for the "Group Camel Safari ride" and briskly walked the short distance from Sadar Bazaar to "Toffu Safari" hotel happy that i would be experiencing a event  that was a prime subject of my Rajasthan travel menu. The cost of the "Camel Safari" was Rs 1800/ person  thanks to the formation of a group of tourists.Left the hotel at 1530 hrs for the 40 kms ride to " Sam Sand Dunes" There were 3 students from Ahmedabad along with me that made this group tour possible with hotel tour safari guide Raju being our driver. They were students from the " National college of Design" in Ahmedabad and on a weekend holiday from college study .Finally we reached " Camel Point " near " Sam Sand Dunes " where our camels were waiting for us to mount them. Camel handler's Mr Amin and a young boy Ayub got us mounted onto our individual camels and led us in a single file akin to a caravan towards Sam Sand dunes. It was a amazing 40 minutes ride and along the way passed alongside the plush "Camel Safari Tents" where tourists were entertained to a night of local dance and music after a camel safari ride. At present almost all the tourists were local Indians from different states of India akin to me from the State of Maharashtra. .

On arrival at the imposing Sam Sand Dunes we  dismounted our camels at the base  of one of the 30-60 meters tall Sand  Dunes and told to indulge in our fantasies regarding photography on the picturesque dunes.Only Male camels are used for camel rides or for carrying loads for if the female camels do the same job then they can't be used for breeding purposes. Very different from horses.

Finally after a 40 minutes solo camel caravan ride we finally arrived on   Sam Sand Dunes.

Not a film set of "THE SHEIK" but lost in  the  30-60 meters tall "SAM SAND DUNES" of the Thar desert  in  Jaisalmer . For the first time in my life got to know the definition of the word "DESERT" where a human could die of thirst and water is more precious than any precious metal or tons of paper currency..

Lone single Desert farmhouse at Sam Sand Dunes

A pre-nuptial shooting of a couple along with a camel was in progress. It was akin to a film shoot with a entire film crew in attendance and employment of a drone for filming aerial photography. I have seen a few film shoots in my lifetime and this was unique although no house hold name actors were involved but a ordinary wealthy couple. After the setting of the Sun which we observed from the Dunes we were taken to the only lone family farmhouse in the vicinity of the desert owned by Amin .A small isolated village farmhouse with cows, chickens,goats,camels and a small ferocious Indie dog. No electricity and my battery charger was non operational and was hoping it would last me till tomorrow. After a excellent cup of tea we were served dinner which tasted excellent although ordinary vegetarian food .After dinner Amin loaded a camel with our mattresses and we walked up a Sand dune where we set up camp in the night.

Have you slept on sand dunes in a authentic desert ?

My small torch proved its weight in gold in the dark desert environment. For me it was a entire night of sleeplessness as the cold desert wind howled throughout the night and although covered with a warm blanket the thin particles of sand penetrated the blanket and onto my face and nostrils. It was akin to being on the deck of a ship on the ocean during heavy seas with sand grains instead of sea mist hitting your face. Yes we slept on the sand dunes in the midst of a freak desert  sand storm No wonder the camel is called the "Ship of the Desert". My 3 young collegian companions had a sound sleep while i once removed my protective blanket covering and just strolled a few feet around our sand bedding with a full blast of cold sandstorm blowing across my body.The photograph of  my empty bedding with my co-travellers sound asleep  was clicked at 0320 hrs.   Memories of a lifetime.

CAMEL RIDES AT SUNRISE ON SAM SAND DUNES OF THAR DESERT  :- The most viewed iconic photograph of Rajasthan and "Sam Sand Dunes" viewed in glossy magazines and pictures all over the Globe exposing  the desert's   barren beauty . Was lucky to click this photograph

Early morning tea at Sam Sand dunes. Now understand the reason of my namesake  Rudolph.Valentino(1895 - 1926) becoming the great  silent screen romantic  heart throb playing the role of the "SHEIK". during the silent movie era of the 1920's.The desert has its own beauty and romanticism along with mystique .Spending a afternoon, night and morning   among the Sand Dunes and a farmhouse surrounded by camels, goats, chickens, cows  and the desert terrain is not a daily occurence for a city dweller. .Experience this once in your lifetime.

Desert Farming :-Tough Desert Marwari breed  goats .

On Sunday(7/3/2021) the desert farmhouse  cock crowed at about 0500 hrs and the quarter-moon had risen high up and lit up the haunting desert night sky .Finally at dawn when my co-travellers woke up  i also officially woke up and went up the Sand dune to observe Sunrise. Early morning camel and jeep safari rides  were in progress and I got a classic photo of camel riders against the backdrop of  Sunrise. After Sunrise we had our breakfast of bread/jam, fruits and a boiled egg. No wonder all rustic villagers irrespective of financial status that I have come across are always healthy .Simple village food with excellent natural environment devoid of pollution is the best medicine the doctor could prescribe for healthy living .There were two beautiful full grown  Marwari breed goats along with other small goats in a corner of the farm. The Thar desert is the natural breeding ground of the Marwari breed of goats used for the dual purpose of milk and meat. One of the goats was a real specimen of goat handsomeness and a ferocious fighter with powerful long horns. It tried butting me as i posed  a photograph with it and as a non-vegetarian  felt guilty as well as sad that one fine day this handsome specimen would be delicious goat meat. That's life , living and human nature.

4 of us tourists heading back to "Camel Point" for our journey by car back to Jaisalmer after spending a night sleeping on the open sand dunes of the Thar Desert. On the way was sad to observe liquor bottles and plastics dumped by tourists onto the pure pristine desert sand. "Sam Sand Dunes" is one of the World's picturesque pure desert in close proximity to a city and hope it is not destroyed by irresponsible tourists.

Courtyard of "Nathmal Haveli"

After breakfast Amin loaded our luggage onto the camels and we began our 40 minutes camel ride back to camel point. Raju our driver and tour coordinator was waiting for us at camel point and finally bidding Amin and the camels farewell drove 40 kms back to " Toffu Safari" hotel. After a warm hot water bathe, a luxury in water scarcity city of Jaisalmer ventured into the Fort locality. Decided to have lunch at "The Trio" restaurant situated next to Mandir Palace hotel at Gandhi chowk to  taste the most talked about Non-vegetarian dish of Rajasthan called  "Laal Maans (Red Meat) ".Lunch was excellent " Lal Maans" with butter tava chapattis which was expensive at Rs 667 but worth the hype and price. After lunch entered Sadar Bazaar and inquired directions to " Nathmal Haveli" situated among the narrow bylines of Jaisalmer . At "Bhatia Sweets" shop a  lady selling sweets  guided me in the right direction and after tasting a local specialty sweet "Doodh Ladoo" from her shop squeezed myself through the narrow road finally reaching Nathmal Haveli. Was surprised that it was a inhabited building like any common residence having a beautiful carved exterior façade. Tourists are allowed only onto the ground floor courtyard of this magnificent Haveli that has tourist shop's selling handicrafts.

"NATHMAL HAVELI" :-  Notice the  beautiful carved exterior design  and the magnificent 2 sandstone elephants on either sides guarding the entrance to the Haveli. All the haveli's in the vicinity look similar  and common due to the  sandstone construction. The wealth and status of the occupants or owners is gauged through the intrinsic artistic carvings and artwork of the building as seen in NATHMAL HAVELI.This Haveli was once the residence of Diwan Mohata Nathmal, the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer.

This 19th century haveli was built by two Muslim jeweler brothers who designed their respective sections in perfect harmony. The interior is decorated with miniature paintings and this Haveli was once the residence of Diwan Mohata.Nathmal  the Prime Minister's of Jaisalmer.. Two yellow sandstone elephants guard the entrance of this landmark Haveli .

Entrance to "KOTHARI'S PATWA HAVELI" museum located in a narrow lane of surrounding Sandstone buildings.

Museum photo of "Patwa Haveli" in 1910

From Nathmal Haveli it was a short walk further ahead  through a narrow street  to the most famous Haveli in Jaisalmer and Rajasthan known as "Patwa  Haveli" or " Kothari Patwa Haveli" after its new owner Jeevanlalji Kothari. .One of the largest Havelis in Rajasthan initiated in 1805 by Shri  Guman Chand Patwa, a wealthy Marwari banker who  built 5 different Havelis for his 5 sons who were brocade and jewelry merchants . This haveli took  a total of 55 years to  be built, finally  completed by his wealthy  sons in 1860."Patwa Haveli"  is a cluster of 5 different small buildings called Havelis in Rajasthan culture and nicknamed the "Taj Mahal of Jaisalmer". There is local folklore as well as facts regarding the monetary rise and fall of the "Patwa Family" that is akin to the "Hope Diamond Curse". Patwa family who made their wealth outside their native  Jaisalmer  were  jinxed once they returned back to their city of origin Jaisalmer as prophesized by a priest from the "Jain Temple" in Jaisalmer Fort. After completion of the Haveli the 5 brothers  lost all their wealth and vanished into oblivion  with the "Caretaker's" of the Havelis  finally usurping the buildings.

Main Business room of the "Patwa Family" .Aristocratic business grandeur of a bygone era in India.

"Kothari Patwa Haveli" museum.

The Caretaker's  later sold the buildings and  now only one Haveli(Building) privately purchased  by Marwari businessman Shri Jeevanlalji. Kothari a former resident of Jaisalmer is  open to the public as a museum. This Haveli  depicts  the lifestyle and era of the  millionaire or billionaire of his era Shri  Guman Chand Patwa and has been   renamed  "Kothari Patwa ki Haveli" after its new owner. Do you believe in CURSES or JINX ? The rise and fall of  Shri Guman.Chand Patwa would convince the least superstitious human or Atheists that at times there is something called "Bad Luck/Jinx or a " Curse". As a former  seafarer, a profession  where the elements of nature play a important role between life and death even in the modern era of 2021 and having visited the port of Terneuzeun in Holland its  the legend of the " Flying  Dutchman"  ghost ship that strikes familiarity with the "Patwa Haveli" history . Ahoy !

Gadgets of  different era at Kothari Patwa Haveli

The architecture of the Haveli  is totally different with its shade of sandstone gold as is almost entire Jaisalmer .This edifice with its intricate exterior design  towers against rest of the buildings on the narrow road. Entrance fee to the museum was Rs 100 . Took the help of a Hindi speaking guide who hilariously explained me the various sections of the museum exhibits while complimenting the business skills of the famed Marwari community of Jaisalmer. India is a country with different religions, communities, castes, languages and geographical diversity existing within its boundary which amazes less travelled Indians let alone total foreigners. The Marwari and Gujarati community of India are renowned for their business acumen as also  thrift regarding usage of money. Hence jokes galore on every community in India including my own miniscule Catholic community let alone the thrifty Marwari's or Gujarati's. India's secret to success is its "Unity in Diversity" that is a fascination to fellow Indians let alone the World..

On the terrace of "Kothari Patwa Haveli".

He explained me the local culture and history of the Haveli as also the basic local culture of Jaisalmer. Jaisalmer being situated in the midst of the Thar desert has a acute water shortage problem and hence perfumes and attars in great demand as regular bathing was not possible.The wall paintings(Murals) ,Jarokhas(Balconies), archways and gateways within this museum haveli  which have derived inspiration from Rajput, Mughal and Victorian architecture was enchanting and transfers the visitor into a different time zone and era of Indian history and lifestyle. In the main exhibit hall is a photograph of the present owner Jeevanlalji.Kothari. Thanks to his philanthropy  that this Haveli has been restored and preserved in its original grandeur .Saw exhibits of  typewriters, camera , fridge,fan's of a different era  imported from abroad and   used by the Patwa family during their residency in the Haveli. The "Kothari Patwa Haveli" gives a visitor a glimpse into the lifestyle and origin's of one of India's most famed and orthodox  business community , the "Marwari Community".Last of all visited the terrace of the Haveli which has some intricate design besides offering a grand view of Jaisalmer Palace and the neighbouring golden sandstone buildings. After paying my guide a fee of Rs 100  was returning back to "Toffu hotel safari" guesthouse through the narrow market lane of Sadar bazaar when I came across a travel agency (Bhatia Agency )selling bus tickets.

Gadisar Lake in Jaisalmer built by the founder of Jaisalmer King Rawal. Jaiswal  in 1156 AD and later rebuilt by Gadsi Singh around 1367 AD  and named Gadisar lake.This lake  was the only  source of drinking water for Jaisalmer and there are many chattris and shrines of Hindu God's and Goddesses on the lake. In the modern era Gadisar Lake receives water from the Indira Gandhi canal and hence never dries during peak summer months.This lake resembles a oasis in the midst of the Thar Desert and attracts aquatic birds in winter . Excellent for bird watching , boating as well as observing Sunrise and sunset. There is a beautiful gateway built by a Royal Courtesan named  Tillon and called " Tillon ki Pol"..

Booked a ticket costing Rs 450 to Jodhpur and walked the distance back to the now familiar "Toffu Safari" hotel. On returning to the hotel booked a hostel room at "Dylan cafe and Guesthouse "   in  Jodhpur through " www.booking.com" and relaxed in the room for a while.

Sadar Market of Jaisalmer

Later in the afternoon walked from my hostel to Gadisar lake with a local giving me a mobike lift to the entrance of the lake. A small artificial lake but to my surprise saw some of the largest cat fish in this lake. A group of local women were feeding them and there was a frenzy among the fish to eat the morsels .I am sure this lake would be having a few giant sized cat fish and swimming could be dangerous although banned.From Gadisar lake walked back through Gadisar market road and Sadar market  towards the Fort. Enroute on the narrow congested road  came across Singh Haveli, a smaller platial haveli with excellent design. .Finally reached my hotel room and took some well needed rest. In the evening at around 1900hrs took a walk into  Jaisalmer fort locality which was colorful with decoration lights with the Fort being externally  illuminated .The area was crowded and visited Sadar market that looked different at night. In India the mild intoxicant herb " Bhang" is legally sold in the States of Madhya Pradesh,Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan with a landmark small shop named " Ristorante Italiano "in the main town locality near the fort entrance advertising its variety of "Bhang" intoxicated eatables ,juices and milkshakes on sale which included my favourite " Lassi". Travel educates ! Decided to taste a " Bhang " flavored " Lassi" costing Rs 150/ cup and  akin to beer there is a variety of graded "Bhang" like " mild" and " Strong " with me opting for " mild ".The Bhang/Lassi mix tasted normal and didn't feel a difference in intoxication unlike even the mildest liquor. Realized that "Bhang" was not my cup of tea and should continue with the trusted drink of alcoholic liquor."Bhang Biscuits" are very popular and slightly cheaper than "Gold Biscuits" , a hit among the wealthy. No harm in trying something new if it's legal.

 Landmark "GHANTA GHAR(CLOCK TOWER)"  in Sardar Market  of Jodhpur Old City.

"Air Force Circle"  bus pick up in Jaisalmer.

Monday(8/3/2021):- For the first time since leaving Mumbai had a good 4 hrs sleep in my palatial " Room No 103" of " Toffu Safari" guesthouse. After having a cup of tea thanked guesthouse employee Amin and checked out of the my room. Amin gave me directions to " Air Force Circle " where the bus's picked passengers and from the hotel  it was a short walk to " Air Force circle " which if  by a rickshaw would have cost me a minimum of  Rs 100. Being early had a cup of tea and whiled away my time at the bus pick up point browsing through my phone. Have evolved as a "Nomad Traveller" over the decades with the "Smart Phone" being my present day   companion instead of paper  bound books or magazines.

Jaisalmer to Jodhpur by bus.

Bus was a excellent luxury sleeper with just a few passengers and at 0845 hrs we departed for Jodhpur. To my disbelief akin to a common local bus this bus picked and dropped passengers on the way akin to a common local bus. About 10 km away from  Jaisalmer  passed the landmark " Jaisalmer war museum " with  the bus stopping at various points and  passengers alighting and boarding making  me wonder if I would reach Jodhpur in 5 hrs. To my amazement the bus did make the distance in time and at 1400 hrs  was in Jodhpur and on alighting the bus rang up the owner of " Dylan cafe and guesthouse" 

requesting  him to give the auto rickshaw driver directions as also to quote the fare. All outstation bus's stop about 5 kms away from Jodhpur Old city and  finally the rickshaw driver drove me through the absolutely congested roads of Jodhpur to destination " Dylan Cafe and guesthouse" building situated next to landmark Gulab Sagar Talab.The fare amounted to Rs120 which was extremely reasonable in comparison to Rs 150 short distance fare  from train station to " Toffu Safari" hotel in Jaisalmer. The owner Mr Amin.Khan had sent his assistant to guide me to the guesthouse, definitely a difficult address to locate although situated in Gulab Sagar locality of Old Jodhpur in close proximity to most of the historical landmarks.

View of "Sardar Market" and Mehrangarh Fort from " Ghanta Ghar" terrace.

In "SARDAR MARKET" square in Jodhpur. Jodhpur Old City centre  is Sardar Market which is named after its builder Maharaja Sardar Singh..

"Shahi Samosa" at Sardar Market.

Owner Mr Amin.Khan welcomed me allotting "Room No 3" on the second floor of a long chawl style building of which he owned 5 floors of the building  including  a terrace roof top with a beautiful view of Mehrangarh Fort. A cozy clean room in comparison to the large spacious room in " Toffu safari" hotel. Akin to "Name Dropping" its  unavoidable for me to compare my residence in whichever city or country i travel. Now you know the definition of living out of a suitcase. Ahoy ! What amazed me is that all the Muslims I met during my short travel in Rajasthan were named " Amin " akin to "Patel's" among Gujarati's and inquired the same with Mr Amin.Khan to which he agreed but couldn't explain the same as he was not fluent in the  English language.

Bustling congested "Sardar Market" streets.

After a short relaxation headed towards  "Sardar Market" where the landmark  "Ghanta Ghar( Clock Tower) is situated. Entire Old Town Jodhpur was crowded and after entering the " Sardar market" gate quenched my thirst and hunger with " Saffron Fruit Lassi" at a popular crowded lassi shop " Om Juice Centre ".Next entered  " Ghanta Ghar " paying a entry fee of Rs 25 and to my disbelief was at the right place at the right time. "Ghanta Ghar" was built by Maharaja Sardar Singh between 1880 and 1911 and is situated in the centre of "Sardar Market" square and known as the clock tower of Rajasthan and not just Jodhpur.. Climbed up the clock tower stairs ,the first time I had ever been inside a working historical clock tower. Did my usual photography and while producing a " Selfie Video" the clock bell chimed and it was a feeling of amazement as well as superstitious fright for at home in Mumbai I have a 45 year old clock that still strikes. Mr Mohammed. Iqbal the clock technician and caretaker has had his family servicing this clock since 1968.He spoke to me and also advised me on the popular eateries at Sardar Market and thanks to his advice  decided to walk to the " Toor ji ka Jhalra ". From the terrace of the clock tower its a beautiful view of "Sardar Market" and "Mehrangarh  Fort" in the distance.

"TOORJI KA JHALRA" :- A scenic stepwell built in 1740 and restored in recent years after being used for decades as a rubbish dump. A must visit site in Jodhpur just to understand the design of medieval stepwells .

Hotels and the Fort overlooking"Toorji ka Jhalra"

After visiting the " Clock Tower" walked towards " Toor ji ka Jhalra" situated in close proximity to " Sardar Market". Akin to Jaisalmer so also in Jodhpur there were hotels and home stays in every street of the city. Two hotels  of  which one is the "Open house Roof Top Cafe" overlook "Toor Ji Ka Jhalra" which is within the congested Old Jodhpur city. "Toorji ka Jhalra" was constructed in 1740 by the Queen consort of Maharaja Abhay.Singh. Commonly called Step-well of Jodhpur this stepwell was made using the famous rose - red sandstone found in Jodhpur and is more than 200 feet in depth. It was once adorned with intricate carvings of deities, dancing elephants with two levels of access and a separate tank that received water from the wheel system powered by bullocks.

View from "Dylan Cafe " roof garden

It was restored after being used as a rubbish dump for decades and now has some resemblance to its original true beauty besides reviving the tourism business in the vicinity.. Magnificent to look from above at ground level with a maze of steps leading to the "Bawda(Stepwell)".During the intense summer heat this stepwell is used by locals for cooling akin to a swimming pool although a warning sign advises people regarding the depth of this 380 years old well.  From " Toorji ka Jhalra" walked back towards Gulab Sagar and on the way a squirrel modeled for me last afraid while I clicked it from handshake distance. Strangely most animals trust me which includes my pet wild crow Tahatsu back home in Mumbai. After photography of the squirrel walked the short distance to " Dylan cafe and guesthouse ".Relaxed in.my room and dinner was on the open air roof top garden which has a beautiful view of the Fort and city. Unlike Jaisalmer Fort that is lit up externally with flood lights the Mehrangarh Fort resembled a dark haunted abandoned citadel at night. Jaisalmer Fort is a " LIVING FORT" while Mehrangarh Fort was a dead fort as also the best maintained museum fort in India.

Excellent "Chicken curry" dinner.

The "Jaswant Thada" monument situated in close proximity to Mehrangarh Fort  glistened majestically in the dark night. Travel educates. There were young student guests from Ahmedabad and one of them Mr Vishnu.Pavithran began painting a caricature on the wall  of Bob Dylan playing a Indian instrument.. Dinner was excellent " Chicken curry" with chapatis and rice. Could feel the abrupt change in weather as Jodhpur was much warmer than Jaisalmer. Jaisalmer although hot in the day was cool at nights but Jodhpur was warm throughout." Dylan cafe and guesthouse" has excellent wifi and honestly besides the normal street ambiance of India the hostel was a replica of the numerous hostels I have lived in various First World as well as developing World country hostels. After dinner artist Mr Vishnu.Pavithran continued with his painting and guesthouse owner Mr Amin.Khan was lucky to get a high class free mural painting which would have normally cost him a few thousands of rupees. Thanks to the "INTERNET", " Booking .com" and " HOSTELS" across the Globe that it's possible for middle-class budget travelers like me to explore distant Country's and city's. This was unthinkable for citizens from developing country's  before the invention of the "INTERNET" and for us Indians the reforms of the Indian economy in the 1990's with a increase of foreign exchange travel money for Indian tourists paving the path of International tourism . Ahoy ! Now only hope International tourism as well as Indian tourism finds it's way back to normalcy after the havoc caused by " Covid -19".             

Mehrangarh Fort :-  The Fort stands  4000 ft above Jodhpur city built on a steep perpendicular cliff and ruled by the Rathore Rajput clan. For the Rathore Rajputs who are Suryavanshi Rajputs  the Sun is the superior God and hence the name Mehr- Garh where Mehr means Sun and Garh means Fort. The locals of Jodhpur pronounced it as Mehrangarh in their language and later called Mehrangarh Fort.  Rudyard Kipling called this fort , "The Fort of Giants" and is at present maintained by Maharaja  Gaj.Singh II, the present head of the Rathore family clan.

Narrow streets of Old Jodhpur city

Tuesday(9/3/2021) :-Had a normal nights sleep of 4 hrs but my left leg pain refused to cease. At 0745 hrs left the guesthouse and headed towards " Sardar Market". Had a early morning tea from the tea stall selling tea in earthenware cups. Picked up a conversation with a rickshaw driver and he agreed to drive me to Mehrangarh Fort entrance .He first took me to a local Dhabba where my breakfast was " Dal Pakwaan" , a normal local snack. After my breakfast we drove towards Mehrangarh Fort with the roads of Old Jodhpur city being a driver/ motorcyclist nightmare with narrow pot hole roads and just broad enough for rickshaws and cars.. Finally after exiting Old Jodhpur city it was a normal ascending well paced hill road. Reached the entry car parking of Mehrangarh Fort at 0830 hrs and after paying the auto rickshaw driver Rs 120 made my way towards the entrance gate. Mehrangarh Fort was built over a extended period of 500 years and has been the seat of power of a senior branch of the Rajput clan known as the Rathores. Rao Jodha the fifteenth Rathore ruler founded Jodhpur city and Mehrangarh Fort in 1459 and in building this fort he was cursed by a hermit called Cheeria.Nathji (Lord of Birds)whom he displaced and later he buried a live man "Raja Ram Meghwal" as a sacrifice for the construction of the Fort.

Main entrance to Mehrangarh Fort

Hence the folklore  fact that Mehrangarh Fort is haunted as it was cursed by a hermit and built over the human sacrifice of a buried man. Even today Jodhpur suffers from drought every 3 -4 years as cursed by the hermit. The current head of the Rathore clan Maharaja Gaj.Singh II  has developed this present day modern museum as a living history of the life of his predecessors. His ancestors ruled the State of Marwar accumulating a wealth of architectural treasure which he is preserving for posterity as Royalty no longer exists in Democratic India. Entry was at 0900 hrs and spent the time just admiring the beauty of the Fort and the view of Jodhpur city as seen from the Fort. For the adventurous there is a " Flying Fox Zipline " at Mehrangarh Fort which is considered the longest and best in India. As in all Hill Forts in India the Mehrangarh Fort has a series of "GATES" protecting the Fort. Initially there were only 5 gates but as Jodhpur expanded the gates were increased to 7 .The names of these 7 gates are "Fateh Gate", "Gopal Gate", "Bhairon Gate","Toati Gate","Dedh Kamgra Gate"," Marti Gate" and "Loha Gate".     

"Bird's Eye View" of a part of Jodhpur city from Mehrangarh Fort. The  blue painted houses are visible  which gives Jodhpur its nickname the "BLUE CITY".

                               

Passing through the entrance gates of Mehrangarh Fort 

"Loha Pol" gate with Sati handprints 

Finally at 0900 hrs entered the main gate and after purchasing the entry ticket of Rs 150 made my way up the inclined hill Fort passing the prominent Fort gates of "Dedh Kamgra Pol" which has cannon hallmarks on its walls and " Loha pol" which has hand prints of the Sati Mark's. Finally entered the main Fort museum and visited the " Elephant Howdah" museum. There is a plush 3 star style restaurant within the Fort set in the open air compound .Definitely the best maintained Fort in India ,spotlessly clean and no damage to the Fort's main external building structure that plagues almost all Fort's in India. Visited the different exhibit sections of the Fort palace requiring a steep ascending walk up a flight of stairs. Various musicians play different musical instruments at various locales along the museum route giving the feel of Old World Rajput charm and lifestyle. From one side of the Fort the houses below in the city are all painted in blue coloured but the same is not in unison with houses situated on the Fort side facing " Sardar Gate/Clock Tower ".Finally on reaching the top floor of the Fort Palace entered the " Museum Souvenir shop" and inquired about miniature paintings.

Daultkhana is a 3 storeyed building with arched openings built in Daulatkhana Courtyard  of  Mehrangarh Fort museum. The rooms are now used to display some of the museums prized exhibits. 

"HOWDAH ROOM" :- The best collection of 18th and 19th century  "ELEPHANT HOWDAH'S " in the World let alone India. A "HOWDAH" is the equivalent of a "Horse Saddle" and is a seat mounted on the elephant's back for humans to seat and travel comfortably . In addition to the "Mahout(Elephant Handler} a number of other people would seat on the wooden framed Howdah.Different styles of Howdah's are on display in this well maintained room. The Howdah's are of 2 compartments  and a few Howdah's  covered with gold and embossed in silver.
The above photo is the silver howdah of Mughal Emperor Shah.Jehan who presented it on 18th  December 1657  as a mark of honour to Maharaja Jaswant .Singh(1639 - 78)  of Jodhpur along with a elephant and 100 horses.

PALACE OF MIRROR'S(SHEESH MAHAL) :- The bedroom of Maharajah Ajit.Singh ( 1679 - 1724) decorated with mirror's.Religious paintings of Hindu God's  Brahma, Shiva and Parvati,Krishna and Ganesh sit enthroned under the archway's.Other religious paintings in this room are of Krishna playing the flute and lifting Mount Govardhan.In another painting Ram and Sita are in conversation with Hanuman.

PHOOL MAHAL(Palace of Flowers) :- A 18th century chamber built by Maharaja Abhay.Singh(1724-49) as a private audience hall.The ceiling is in gold filigree and mirror and walls painted in 19th century decor depicts the various moods of the Indian classical ragas, royal portraits and the incarnations of  Vishnu and Goddess Durga.The "PHOOL MAHAL" is the grandest period room in Mehrangarh Fort.

Sileh Khana( Armoury) :- A display of various types of Armory 

TAKHAT NIWAS :- The personal apartment of Takhat.Singh( 1843 - 1872). Dazzling interiors.

Moti Mahal :-  The pearl palace is one of the oldest surviving period rooms in the fort. The walls of the rooms  are polished with "Chunam" and decorated with niches in which once lamps flickered.

Indian classical musicians on the Fort

Seems my investment of a " Rajput Miniature" purchased in 2003 from Udaipur had appreciated in price as has most of my antique/Curio collection from different parts of the Globe most prominently East Africa Ahoy!I have a addiction to purchasing footwear and decided to purchase a pair of "Blue Jodhpur" costing Rs 690,another addition to my footwear collection back home in Mumbai. From the museum Souvenir shop it was a short step walk to the topmost part of the Fort which offers the best view of the city. It was akin to seeing Jodhpur city from a drone or helicopter and the new modern tall edifices of Jodhpur was visible in the distance. Cannon artillery is placed on the edge of the Fort walls and the sight is awesome. There is a Mataji temple on the same level just below the main Fort Cannon terrace. Thankfully there was a cooler with chilled cold water and satisfied my parched throat akin to a camel quenching its thirst not drinking water for days. Travel educates. From this Cannon viewpoint of Mehrangarh Fort made my departure back towards the entrance.

There are approximately 20 canons placed on the top of the ramparts of one side of the  Fort and  which offers a majestic view of the Old city city facing "Sardar Market/Clock Tower" .In this part of the city a few  the houses are  painted blue.

View of Mehrangarh from Jaswant Thada

A pleasant walk with Indian instrumental music emitting from various parts of the Fort.If you believe in the supernatural and ghosts then Mehrangarh Fort is known to be a haunted Fort. If you believe in God then you have to believe in the existence of evil. Even popular entertainment has villain and heroes and the villain at times referred as the devil .Period. Mehrangarh Fort museum would require a minimum of 2 day's visits to actually appreciate the history and architecture.  Finally with aching legs reached the entrance /exit gate of the Fort and decided to visit "Jaswant Thada",the cremation ground of the Royals. Autorickshaw fares were astronomical and finally a auto driver agreed to take me to " Jaswant Thada" and back to home away from home to "Dylan cafe and guesthouse" near "Sardar Market ".I have lost count of the hotels, homestay's, guesthouses houses and lodges that I have resided when on.my " NOMADIC TRAVELS". It was a short 1 Km drive to "Jaswant Thada" from Mehrangarh Fort which has a scenic artificial lake at its entrance in which I spotted a pair of wild ducks, common Double breasted cormorants and the large Great Cormorant.

View of "Jaswant Thada" a cenotaph built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in 1899 in memory of his father Maharaja Jaswant Singh II.It is the cremation ground for the Royal Rajput family of Marwar. The Cenotaph is built of intricately carved thin  marble sheets which are highly polished and emit a glow in the bright sunshine. 

Lake  at Jaswant Thada .Excellent Aquatic Birds.

After purchasing the entrance ticket made my way into the main courtyard and finally into a large hall that has the framed photographs of all the Rajput Rulers of the Jodhpur Royal family. Not much to see but a very serene and peaceful atmosphere akin to visiting a cemetery. I love visiting Christian cemeteries or monuments dedicated to the deceased and " Jaswant Thada" makes us human's realize that irrespective of being a Rajput King or Commoner death is a inescapable fact of life. Jaswant Thada complex has  a beautiful garden and many domes and columns  and hence  called the "Taj Mahal of Mewar".This ground  is still used in the present era as a cremation ground for the Marwar Royal family.

"GULAB SAGAR LAKE" :-  Gulab Sagar lake was built in 1788 by Gulab Rai the beloved of  Maharaja Vijay Singh and its from her the lake got its name with the lake being a large  150 X 90 Metres in size  and took eight years to construct. The lake receives water from a canal from Bal Samand Lake and is never dry. In the evening its lit up with lights as seen in the photograph. Sadly this lake and its promenade is literally a garbage dump. Litter is dumped into the lake as seen in this photo . Vegetarian food is left rotting on the promenade. Hope akin to "Toorji Ka Jhalra" the beauty of this lake and promenade is restored.

" Shri Arya Marudhar Vyayamshala  gymnasium"

From " Jaswant Thada" it was a long descending drive back towards " Sardar Market". At " Sardar Market" lunch was a single vegetarian samosa costing Rs 18 at "Shahi Samosa" which seems to have entire locality as its customers followed by "Lassi" and " Gulab Jamun " sweets at landmark " Shri Mishrilal Hotel' established in 1927 and recommended by all travel guide writers. Walked the short distance from " Sardar Market" to " Dylan cafe and guesthouse " and met guesthouse owner Mr Amin.Khan whose entrepreneurship could be a text book case study of success."Covid -19" has affected his business as it has the entire hospitality industry but his attitude and optimism has helped him tide this cruel once in a 100 years pandemic economic apocalypse. He was  a excellent cook as he demonstrated in his preparation of " Chicken curry".

Landmark  2 centuries old  Heritage hotel "PAL HAVELI" facing "Sardar Market" gate and once  the residence of the wealthy  Thakurs of Pal ,the scions of Thakur Umaid Karan Ji. It has a 18th  century bar with antique furniture. Numerous shops occupy the front portion of the hotel as seen in the photo.The large main entrance door once welcomed Royalty on elephants..

Typical night bazaar of "Sardar Market".

Today he told me that  " Mutton curry"was  on the dinner menu on his classic roof-top terrace garden with a view of imposing Mehrangarh Fort. Most of his guests were foreign tourists some of whom  painted free  murals on his garden terrace wall .In the evening strolled towards " Sardar Market"  and just outside the guesthouse main road  facing Gulab Sagar lake noticed a gymnasium  " Shri Arya Marudhar Vyayamshala  gymnasium" with men doing various workouts on weights, and bodybuilding machines. Entered the gymnasium run by a charitable trust and for the first time saw a training section for the sport of wrestling. Spoke to a member who told me that this well equipped gymnasium charges a nominal Rs 100/ year and has produced wrestlers of National level mostly employed in the railways .

Caricature painting of Bob Dylan 

After sightseeing this excellent charitable gymnasium made my way towards  Sardar market and passing alongside a large palatial Haveli hotel was surprised to know that this was the famed 200 year old "Pal Haveli" hotel of which i had read wonderful reviews. Amazed  that this haveli that once had large elephants entering its courtyard was now surrounded by a cluster of shops , absolutely congested. So "Dylan Cafe & guesthouse" was definitely in prime Jodhpur tourist locality. Sardar Market  was crowded as usual with the " Clock Tower" looking better at night. The market was bustling with activity and the narrow roads a nightmare for traffic and pedestrians. Went to " Shri Mishrilal hotel" and took a " Rabadi" sweet dish as a parcel for dessert after dinner. While returning back had a view of " Gulab Sagar" whose promenade was literally a waste food dumping ground. Gulab Sagar lake was built in 1788 by Gulab Rai the beloved of  Maharaja Vijay Singh and its from her the lake got its name with the lake being a large  150 X 90 Metres in size  and took eight years to construct. The lake receives water from a canal from Bal Samand Lake and is never dry.

Amin.Khan and "Dylan Cafe"

The Kunjebihari temple dedicated to Lord Krishna is in close proximity to this lake. Tragic and wonder the reasons for this neglect of a prominent landmark of Old Jodhpur city with the 200 year old "Pal Haveli" just  walking distance from this landmark lake.. The lake is bisected into two halves with a garden style illuninated  path joining both ends of the lake and actually a lakeside garden akin to a sea facing promenade. .Totally perplexed regarding the degeneration of a city's prominent landmark headed back to the guesthouse. Dinner was late at 2130 hrs as the terrace dining hall had some more guests and dinner was " Mutton curry/ Chapati".

Chittorgarh Fort, the largest fort in India is  situated on a 180 m(591 ft) height hill and spread over a area of 692 acres. The Fort   towers over Chittor city situated on the plains below  through which the river Berach flows .At night parts of the Fort and its entire boundary wall is illuminated offering a beautiful spectacle  from the city as seen in this photograph..

Early morning fresh fodder for cows 

Wednesday(10/3/2021):- Surprisingly night temperature in Jodhpur was  pleasant at 25*c and as usual did manage to get a few hours sleep. My left leg pain refuses to improve and just hope it cures with time and medical treatment.  Although physically perfectly fit this niggling leg pain was a major handicap. At 0700 hrs walked out of the guesthouse for a morning walk to Sardar market. As usual there was green fresh fodder being sold for temple devotees who fed the cow's every morning. The regular tea shop was opening for business  and hence walked to the other end of Sardar market for my dose of " VITAMIN CHAI". Noticed a local feeding the stray dogs which are numerous around the market square as also harmless. Not a single stray cat in sight. Walked back towards the guesthouse and En-route had a " Khullar tea" at my regular tea shop. Back in the guesthouse spotted the only cat in Jodhpur Old Town in the guesthouse owned by the owner Mr Amin.Khan.

Cats are rare in Jodhpur."Babu",the guesthouse cat

He had 2 Male cat's and this one named " Babu" was hungry and meowing loudly reminding me of my own cats. Cats are cats in any part of the World or any human owner. Fed " Babu" a piece of raw chicken. Later settled my bill's with owner Amin.Khan and got ready for travel on the road to Chittorgarh. Amin had rung up a autorickshaw and at 1000 hrs said goodbye to " Dylan cafe and guesthouse" and began the road trip to Jodhpur  (R.S.R.T.C) public bus stand. Was early at the bus booking counter and had to wait till 1100 hrs to. purchase a ticket costing Rs 310.Bus departure was punctual at 1130 hrs and as usual akin to a common city bus kept picking passengers at various stops.

Mid way on the journey while driving up a narrow inclined road  came across a accident that caused a road blockage of at least 45 minutes and  delayed  the arrival time. Finally reached Chittorgarh bus depot at 1930 hrs. Walked out of the bus depot and inquired about the nearest hotel having done my travel homework as usual to avoid getting cheated  or worse, aimless loitering for search of a cheap hotel. Walked into desolate " Natraj Tourist Hotel" the first landmark hotel on the main  street having a large building accommodation, the largest hotel in the centre of  Chittorgarh. .The manager informed me that only a single A/C room was available and opted for the same although I detest cold weather including extreme A/C room temps.

Dinner in Chittor was "Katla Fish curry/Vodka"

This was a large sprawling 40 year old hotel that had seen better day's  and now in a rundown condition due to " Covid -19" tourist shortfall. " Room No 102" on the first floor was the equivalent size of a Mumbai Studio flat with a high ceiling, aristocratic Old world construction design that is now extinct in the modern "Pigeon Apartments" era of living in Megapolis city's like Mumbai. . A/C was in excellent working condition and after a refreshing bathe headed onto the street in search for Non - veg food. There was a string of vegetarian eatery shops and just one Non-veg restaurant " Ghunghut" serving non veg as well as doubling as a bar. Felt I was transferred in a time machine to Bombay now Mumbai of the 1980's.Restaurant was doing brisk business and picked up a conversation with a local tippler ,a vegetarian who ate Non- veg only on Sunday's. Dinner was " Katla fish curry/Chapati " washed down with a peg of " Magic Moments" vodka .Had to rub my eyes to believe I was in a bar in Rajasthan ,the land of warrior Rajput's and World class Marwari businessmen. Travel educates. After a excellent dinner, dessert was "Doodh ladoo" a Rajasthani specialty at a sweets shop down the same road. Walked the short distance to my hotel and had my normal 4 hrs sleep in excellent A/c room temp of 21%c, perfect.

In the ruins of the "RANA KUMBHA PALACE"  situated in close proximity to monument "Vijay Stambha" inside Chittor Fort..Now in total ruins its been the residence of people of the stature of Bappa Rawal, Maharana Kumbha,Rani .Padmini and Princess Mirabai who are some of the most prominent names in Rajput history.The legend of Panna. Dai who saved infant Udai.Singh, the founder of Udaipur is associated with this palace.This is also believed to be the place according to the historic epic  poem "Padmavat" where in its dungeons  Rani.Padmini and other Rajput women committed "Jauhar" when Chittor was conquered by  Alauddin.Khalji in 1303 A.D .Strolling through the ruins a viewer can estimate the magnificence and grandeur of this once imposing palace now just a waste of imposing ruins.

Paidal Pol : First of 7 entrance gates to Chittor Fort

Thursday(11/3/2021):- " Time and Tide waits for none " and today was my 61st birthday. Life had been kind to me with its usual roller coaster financial, physical and romantic rides. At age 61  could look back in contentment on the " Good, Bad and Ugly" situations during my long journey to this day and strangely  have achieved most of my fantasies  gradually at a very late age in my life.Call me a late bloomer but no regrets as the World hold's few surprises. Still ahead on my journey through life  is  the magic N0 100  of Country's visited during a lifetime. Believe it or not but after my premature employment retirement at age 46  have been   more busy than my actual active employment years over the decades. Yes life is funny. bizarre  and hilarious at times and hope to prove the fact as well as encourage others  that age is just a numerical number and "RETIREMENT" is not the end of your economic or social life..

Bhairon Pol: Akbar shot Jaimal

Tea was at a roadside tea-seller, excellent taste although served in a cute tiny environment friendly cup costing Rs 10 of which i could consume a minimum of  10 cups worth Rs 100 ! He introduced me to rickshaw driver Siqandar who agreed to take me on a guided tour of Chittorgarh Fort.After a hot water bath dressed and left the hotel to begin my tour of Chittorgarh Fort..First had breakfast at a street stall which was hot  excellent Paratha/ Sabji, typical north Indian breakfast. At 0930 began out long drive to Chittorgarh Fort which is distinctly visible from the city below. It was a long drive along the western side entrance of the fort  through a well paved road and passed through the 7 gates of the Fortified citadel, The 7 gates are  1) Paida[ Pol :- the oldest gate dating  back to 1100 AD.  2) Bhairon Pol :- The gate where Emperor Akbar shot  Jaimal. Rathore during the 3rd siege of Chittor (1567-68 AD) 3) Hanuman Pol:- Excellent example of  Hindu architecture. 4) Ganesh Pol :- Upper portion of the gate has fallen off.5) Jorla Pol :-  Upper part of gate joined with the foot of the next.6) Laxman Pol :- Largest gate in size  and the main gate 7) Ram Pol :- Lavishly decorated with upper part broken. In the local language Pol means gate.

View of Chittorgarh city from the Fort.

Finally passed under "Ram Pol" gate to enter Chittorgarh Fort which is also a partly inhabited fort. The entrance ticket price was Rs 40 and the money paid digitally and not through cash. A few guides on motorcycles pestered me for their services  but being a student of history myself requested autorickshaw driver Siqandar to just take me to the various historical locales where i would put my history homework into effect.Chittorgarh was the former capital of the Sisodia clan of Rajputs and was a target of 3  famous sieges during its history.The first siege was in 1303 in which the Delhi Sultanete ruler Alauddin Khalji defeated the Guhila king Ratnasimha. The second siege was in 1535 in which Bahadur Shah of Gujarat defeated Bikramjit Singh  with the Mewar Regent Rani.Karnavati  committing  Jauhar.

Main entrance to Rana Kumbha Palace.

The last siege was between  1567 - 1568 when Mughal Emperor Akbar  attacked Chittorgarh ruled by  Rana Uday Singh II and defeated the defenders of the fort Rao Jaimal and Patta. The large number of  architectural remains  dating from 8th to 16 th  century which once included 6 palaces, 84 water bodies, 11 entrances, 5 Haveli/Houses,, 3  gardens,1 top khana(armoury), 4 memorials  and 16 temples  make this a exceptional fort  as also the largest Fort among the vast number of Forts in India. Our first stop was  at  "Rana Kumbha Palace" situated in close proximity to monument "Vijay Stambh".There is a entrance ticket to the Palace ruins and  took the services of a guide to explain me the location of the various locales within this sprawling  Palace .

"RANA KUMBHA PALACE" :- Once inside the Palace grounds its a visual tour of the ruins of what was once a magnificent palace. Maharana Kumbha ( 1433 - 1468 AD) of the Sisodia clan was the ruler of Mewar and he made several alterations to this palace .Maharana Kumbha is credited to having rebuilt the State of Mewar and of the 84 fortresses that defended Mewar 32 were erected by Maharana  Kumbha.

Now in total ruins its been the residence of people of the stature of Bappa Rawal, Maharana Kumbha,Rani .Padmini and Princess Mirabai who are some of the most prominent names in Rajput history.The legend of Panna. Dai who saved infant Udai.Singh, the founder of Udaipur is associated with this palace. From the ruins of this fort the city of Chittorgarh below looks beautiful in the glistening sunlight.There was a large granary in the centre of  a ground on one of the Palace complex ruins 

RANA KUMBHA PALACE :-  The Secret underground chamber that leads to the dungeons  of the Palace. It is believed Rani Padmini and the Rajput ladies went down this tunnel when they finally committed Jauhar.

This is also believed to be the place according to the historic epic  poem "Padmavat" where in its dungeons  Rani.Padmini and other Rajput women committed "Jauhar" when Chittor was conquered by  Alauddin.Khalji in 1303 A.D .

Jain Temples in Chittorgarh Fort from 11th century onwards :- Rajasthan was influenced by the Swethambara branch of Jainism At present there are 6 Jain temples inside Chittorgarh Fort. Bhagawan Adinatha is the largest Jain Temple featuring about 52 devkulikas.

From the "Rana Kumbha Palace" next drove to the "Jain temples" complex   and from there to Meera Bai temple 

Meera Bai temple .Meera Bai the 16th century mystic poet who dedicated her life to Lord Krishna.

During my youth i was a crazy movie fan and with age progressed into watching "Theatre(Plays)"  with the "Mousetrap" at the "St Martin's theatre" in London fulfilling my desire of seeing the longest running  International play.

This white horse was a aristocratic beauty and the "ACTOR" in me decided to demonstrate  medieval horsemanship on this  beautiful trained horse, a replica of "Chetak" . A very popular brisk business on Chittorgarh Fort with  "White Horses" at various points  and the horse handlers offering photo shoots for tourists. Honestly with "25 Years(Silver Jubilee)" years of attendances at race courses in India  and  abroad as a fan and punter  this photo shoot was unique for its location and the fact that it was my birthday  and at at the young age of 61 years could still control a horse without any formal regular horse riding practice . Chetak" the white colored horse ridden by Maharana Pratap in the "Battle of Haldighati" on 18th June 1576 is synonymous with bravery and loyalty.In modern  India "Chetak" has become a brand name for  selling various products most notably one of India's most famous and best selling scooter brands , the "Bajaj Chetak". A horse handler was allowing tourists to sit on his beautiful white horse replica of "Chetak" for a photo-shoot and as usual being a horse punter and that too at a historical site  decided to get myself photographed akin to a actor on a medieval film shoot.

RANI PADMINI PALACE :-  The Palace where Rani Padmini lived after she married the ruler of Mewar  Maharaja Rawal Rattan Singh. The Palace was surrounded by a Lotus pool which was used by the palace ladies. The legend of Rani Padmini endures in Indian history and she was said to be as beautiful as Cleopatra and supposed to be  the main reason  Sultan Alauddin Khalji attacked Chittor  in 1303 and killed Maharaj Rawal.Rattan .Singh  after which  Rani Padmini and the Rajput ladies committed Jauhar.

After the "Chetak Horse film shoot "  our next stop was  the ruins of "Padmini Palce".Rani  Padmini also known as Padmavati was the second  wife of Rawal.Ratan.Singh and was considered very beautiful and intelligent.The "Padmini Palace" stands on the northern margin of Padmini lake.It is a 3 storeyed buiding standing in the middle of the lake with a arched opening locally known as "Jai Mahal".

Nougja Peer ( Holy Man) grave near Kalika mandir that is 9 meters  in length. Naugja Peer was a saint whose actual name was Syed Ibrahim.Badshah and is believed to ensure safe  journeys and completions of projects on time.There are numerous Nougja Peer shrines in Punjab.

From Padmini Palace  visited the "Nougja Peer grave " which is situated South west of Kalika Mandir.

"KALIKA MATAJI TEMPLE " :-  This is a 14th  century temple built from the ruins of a original  8th century Hindu  temple . The upper parts of the temple is more recent construction. The temple is dedicated to Lord Bhadrakali  and has thousands of visitors a day during normal times and Langur monkeys are all round the temple entrance accustomed to being fed by devotee's or even snatching food from unsuspecting victims.

Next visited the "Kalika Mataji Temple" that had numerous bold Langur monkeys on a watch for devotee's offering them food. Was witness to a giant langur literally walk towards a pilgrim and snatch a packet  from his hand. Very intelligent Langur's as they can distinguish between food and other tangible articles. I was afraid of my phone being snatched but was happy to note the Langur's didn't consider me hostile and allowed me to videotape them from handshake distance as seen in the video. 

"Suraj Pol Gate" :-  Entrance gate from the East end of  the Fort. During the the 3rd siege of Chittorgarh in 1567 a Mughal battery was set up on the east side of the Fort  to enter through this gate by Emperor Akbar. Thus Akbar had launched a two frontal attack on the Rajputs, one from the main Western entrance gates and the other from this gate. This gate was defended by the  Rajputs under Rawat.Sain.Das Chundawat and Raj Rana Surtan Singh.There are steps from this gate leading down to the village below and a few Bollywood movies have been filmed at this location.

From Kalika Mataji temple  it was a short drive to "Suraj Pol( Sun Gate)" which provides entrance from the eastern end of the fort.  At "Suraj Pol" gate there were photo shoots for the iconic "Chetak Horse" posture and  young lady was busy getting filmed during my visit.

"KIRTI STAMBH COMPLEX" :-  Kirti Stambh or "Tower of Fame" was built by the Bhagerwal Jain merchant Jijaji Rathod and is dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain Tirthankar. Next to the "Kirti Stambh" is the 14th century Jain temples. Raised on higher ground the temple comprises of a sanctum and a mandapa. The temples walls are beautifully carved.

KIRTI STAMBH (TOWER OF FAME) :- Kirti Stambh is  a six storied tower 22(72 ft) meters high built on on a 30 ft base .A central narrow staircase inside the Stambha with 54 steps  leads to the top of the sixth storey pavilion. The roof of this elegantly designed pavilion stands on 12 columns. Large standing  images of Trithankara are placed in four niches on the lowest floor  .The main purpose of its construction was to glorify Jainism.

From "Suraj Pol" gate next entered the courtyard of the "Neelkanth Mahadev Temple" dedicated to Lord Shiva and since i was non- Hindu didn't enter the temple. From the temple it was a short drive to Kirti Stambh.

VIJAY STAMBH ( Tower of Victory) :-  This tower was constructed by the Mewar king Rana Kumbha  between 1458 - 1468 to commemorate his victory over Mahmud Shah I Khalji of Malwa in 1440 AD. The tower is dedicated to the Hindu  God Vishnu.Ruin's of temples destroyed by invading rulers are kept on the large grounds that lead to "Vijay Stambh" .Vijay Stambh is taller than Kirti Stambh at 37.2 meters( 122 ft) ht and a base of over 47 Sq ft. It has 9 storey's and can be accessed by a narrow circular staircase of 157 steps. The Stambh is illuminated during evenings  as is the entire  length of the Chittor fort walls that looks beautiful from the city.

"SAMADHISHVARA TEMPLE " seen from a distance  :- This is a Hindu temple  located in the same "Vijay Stambh complex" on the northern bank of Gaumukh Kund reservoir and dedicated to Lord Shiva.Evidence suggests this temple was constructed in the 11th century and restored during the 13th and 15th centuries. Temple ruins destroyed by invaders can be seen on the ground in front of the temple. 

From "Kirti Stambh" it was a long drive to Vijay Stambh complex. After a look at the Vijay Stambh  took a left turn  and walked down  a flight of stairs to visit the  "Gaumukh Reservoir" located near the Samadhishvara  temple..

"GAUMUKH KUND RESERVOIR" :- Situated within the Vijay Stambh complex  near Samadheswar temple this is a perineal spring water tank whose source is a mystery. A natural Spring   feeds this tank from a carved cow's mouth in the cliff. Lord Shiva Shivling and Goddess Lakshmi statue is placed at the source of the spring .This water tank was the main source of water to Chittor fort during its numerous sieges. It is believed that after touring Holy religious sites in India a Hindu should visit Gaumukh Kund reservoir to complete the cycle of their pilgrimage. Entrance to the temple was crowded and a few  pilgrims were feeding the fish which were large in size. Care should be taken while ascending and descending the steps .

"FATEH PRAKASH MUSEUM" :-  This palace  the residence of Maharana Sir Fateh Singh ( 1849 - 1930) and named after him   is constructed in Rajasthani style with a large number of corridors and pillars .The edifice has a tower on each of its four corners which is crowned by domed chattrie's. He ruled Mewar for 46 years with Udaipur as his Capital residing at the " City Palace ,Udaipur" He was the only Mahraja not to attend the "Delhi Darbar" of 1903 and 1911..The presence of a large variety  of crystal objects owned by the Maharaja prompted the authorities to exhibit the same in a museum and in 1968 this gave the idea of converting a part of the palace into a museum.

Revolver guns  in "Fateh Palace museum"

After my visit to Gaumukh Kund reservoir returned back to the " Entrance /Exit gate  of "Vijay Stambh" and to my horror found no sign of driver Siqandar or his rickshaw. I had forgotten to note down his   phone number driver  and hence  lost contact with him as I had exited at the wrong side from where he parked his rickshaw. There were 2 entrances/exits to  the sprawling "Vijay Stambh Complex" and  did the mistake of entering from one side and exiting on another side following the crowd. Finally after a hour  of anxiety and searching around the vicinity like a mad man with the local vendor's including "Tourist police" consoling me finally  did trace him and all ended well. Always remember to note down the name, phone and vehicle number of a car/ vehicle hired during a guided tour if travelling solo .Our last stop was at the museum. During my visit  to the magnificent Fateh Palace museum only the ground floor of the palace museum was open to public viewing. The museum is divided into sections showcasing different items of antiquity such as coins, art, weapons, tribal life.

"FATEH PRAKASH PALACE MUSEUM" :-  Drawing of Rangoli's on the palace  courtyard ground  decorated on the occasion of "Mahashivratri" and the "Chittorgarh Fort Festival - 2021" to be celebrated over two day's. 

At the centre of the Palace is  the palace courtyard and women were drawing "Rangoli's" on the ground  of the courtyard as it was the auspicious "Mahashivratri Day"  and from tomorrow there was to be a grand two day " Chittorgarh Fort Festival(12-13/3/2021)"."C

Fateh Prakash Palace Museum :-  Display of a "RAJPUT WARRIOR" in battle gear.

A map of "Chittorgarh Fort"  is on display which resembles  the shape of a whale fish when viewed aerially from the air or a drone in the present era. In this museum all weapons actually used in the battlefields by the Rajput's is on display. Dagger's, Knives, Shields, arrows, helmets. uniforms and costumes worn by Rajput soldier's  are all on display with captions explaining the exhibits. Got to understand the importance and design of a "Gunpowder  holder" used in warfare between  1600 - 1850 AD  as also "Topidar Guns" that was later replaced by revolvers. Fateh Prakash Palace  was the last  itinerary of the day's tour of the largest fort in India and after a snack of "Samosa/Tea" auto driver Siqandar dropped me back to the hotel and  after paying  him Rs 600 for his services  relaxed in my hotel.

Dinner at "Ghunghat" with a vodka peg

Later in the evening had a peg of vodka and Mutton curry/Chapati followed by a dessert of Mava and Rosgoola sweets . Suddenly there was a freak drizzle followed by thunder and lightning. When I went to the hotel the town's electricity was off and in the darkness happened to meet the hotel owner Mr Ashutosh.Pancholi.He told me that his ancestral hotel was the oldest private hotel in Chittorgarh, over 40 years old. His main holdings were in the I.T industry and he was planning to renovate his hote l which was definitely in a bad condition. We both had a long talk until the lights switched on and then went back to my room and called it a day. A very normal day for the birthday boy except that the food effected my stomache causing me a "Food Poisoning " scare. It didn't strike me that the food in "Ghunghat" could at times be toxic as hygiene maintained was minimal .Definitely experienced this  among the cheapest restaurants i visited in Mumbai of the 1970's/80's during my carefree student/Marine Engineering  youth  days where a lack of  pocket money allowances made me relish eatables at the cheapest restaurants when not viewing matinee films at discounted ticket rates.

Old World "Natraj Hotel", my residence in Chittor.

Old habits die hard and realized its time "Crorepati Rudy" has a  upgrade of lifestyle at least  regarding eating habits in different types of restaurants as  tasting "Street Food" is a part of my travelogues while Globe trotting or locale trotting in India ."Ghunghat" was a classy "Daru Adda(Liquor restaurant)", a big hit in the locality  but definitely not safe for weak digestive systems as i am also allergic to extremely pungent food. Ahoy !  Visited the toilet numerous times before good luck prevailed and my bowels stabled to normalcy. Luck was on my side otherwise a bout of diarrhea would have created havoc with my travel agenda at a time when the World and India was reeling under the "Covid-19 Pandemic".

After years did "BIRD WATCHING" on the banks of the Berach river in Chittorgarh. Excellent spotting of aquatic birds and in the photo a pair of purple moor hens are visible. Painted Storks, Greater Cormorants, Lapwings ,wild ducks were a few bird species i could identify. Numerous squirrels  in the vicinity.

On way for "Chittor Fort Festival".

Friday(12/3/2021):- Woke up early as usual and went to the now familiar tea stall for my morning cup of tea. Had carried my binoculars along for some aquatic bird watching by the  Berach riverside. On entering the street spotted a well decorated elephant walking along the street towards Chittorgarh Fort end. They were on their way to the Fort to attend the 2 day Chittorgarh Fort festival(12-13) , a annual feature of this Hill Fort town .After my cup of tea walked the short distance to the  Berach riverside and was amazed at the wealth of aquatic birds  spotted, a few which I could identify.  The Berach river a tributary of the Banas river  originates in the hills of Udaipur district and has a length of 157 Kms  and a basin area of  7502 Sq Km. flowing north- east through Udaipur, Chittorgarh and Bhilwara districts before joining its tributary Banas near Bhigod village of Bhilwara..After my lucky and unexpected bird watching walk returned back to the hotel. Normally I avoid A/c hotels or accommodations as I am allergic to very long exposure to the cold A/C cooling but here in Natraj Hotel the A/C was a stress relief from the heat.

Chittor-Udaipur bus.End of the road tour

Finally at 1000 hrs checked out of Hotel Natraj and walked  next doors into the  Chittorgarh Roadways bus depot . Was at the right place at the right time and after booking a ticket costing Rs 120 boarded the bus to Udaipur. The main highway from Chittorgarh to Udaipur was excellent and would have loved riding my motorcycle on this stretch of Rajasthan roads. Finally at 1315hrs reached Udaipur Bus depot. After alighting the bus kept my luggage at the bus luggage counter and headed out of the bus depot. The centre of the city was undergoing major repairs and hence a diversion of traffic as well as traffic  congestion. A rickshaw driver advised me to visit " Fateh Sagar" , a distance of 5 kms from the bus depot. On a payment of Rs 100 as fare he drove me to " Fateh Sagar".The Sun was at its peak brightness although a cool gush of breeze blew across the large lake.

One of the scenic views from the coast of Lake Fateh Sagar  surrounded by the Aravali hills..My bird watching from Berach lake in Chittorgarh continued onto the scenic Lake Fateh Sagar in Udaipur. "Bird Watching" was not on my agenda  but surprisingly had a excellent view of aquatic birds in Chittorgarh and now here at Fateh Sagar lake. A Lap wing is the model of this photo . Boating which includes "Speed Boat" rides is a popular activity on this lake. Rentals for motorboats  was Rs 89/person and  Rs 236/person for a speedboat.

Islands on Fateh Sagar lake.

Fateh Sagar lake is a artificial lake  of 4 Sq Km area  and a shore length of 8.5 km constructed in the 1680's  and situated  North -West of Udaipur to the north of Lake Pichola and named after Maharana Fateh Singh of Udaipur and Mewar.It is one of the four lakes in Udaipur city  the other three being Lake  Pichola , Udai Sagar lake and Dhebar lake.During my solo tour in 2003 when still employed in the "Merchant Navy" had visited Lake Pichola as it is closest to the main city. There are numerous stalls situated at a certain section of the lake circumference and lunch was " Paav/ Bhaji"along with cold juice. From my restaurant stall it was a beautiful view of the lake in hot sunshine and surprisingly  very heavy winds.

Not beer but Sugarcane juice at Fateh Sagar lake

Did some bird watching and spotted a few ducks. There are three small islands within Lake Fateh Sagar  of which the largest island  Nehru Park is a popular tourist attraction. The second island houses a public park with a water jet fountain while the third island houses the "Udaipur Solar Observatory". All these islands are approachable by boats from  boat jetty's situated at different locations along the circumference of the lake . Camel and tonga horse rides is a popular activity along the circumference of the lake which  has a winding road along its entire circumference with a protective boundary wall along the lake shoreline. Due to "Covid-19 Pandemic" these tourist island were closed to the common public and only boat rides on the lake was permitted. Every year the "Hariyali Amavasya Mela( Green New Moon Fair)" is held on the lake's precincts in the month of Shravan ( August/September).On the top of  "Moti Magri( Pearl Hill)"  whose approach is from Fateh Sagar lake is the memorial to Rajput hero Mahrana Pratap of the "Battle of Haldighati".. The memorial is a bronze statue of Maharana Pratap astride his favourite horse "Chetak".

String of food stalls on Fateh Sagar lake.

It was a long 1 Km uphill trek to "Moti Magri " and hence didn't visit the memorial as i was also on my last legs of this hectic adventure travel and had to preserve my energy to reach home back in Mumbai. Scouting through my binoculars observed a Fort style edifice perched on top of a hill facing the lake. Presumed it was a Rajput hill Fort and on inquiry with a local was amazed to learn that this  edifice  was the private residence of  the marble king of Rajasthan and the the World. Being a snobbish city bred Mumbaikar thought Industrialist Mukesh.Ambani and a few house hold name  actors had lavish  World class residence's and was utterly surprised that  this Fortress style bungalow on a private hill akin to a private island has yet to be featured among the World's most unique private residences. Site and location for the next "007 James Bond movie " ? Travel educates. Ahoy ! I was tired and after lunch whiled away some time sitting in " Guru Gobind Singh Park" , a small playground park  situated on slightly higher ground on a hill offering a excellent view of the lake. Finally decided to call it a day and hired a autorickshaw to take me back to the city  bus stand.

Statue of "Battle of Haldighati" horse "CHETAK"  at "Chetak Circle" in Udaipur.

"JMB " Mithai shop. End of Travel celebrated with sweets.

On the way stopped at "Chetak Circle" which has a statue of the horse "Chetak" and took a photograph of the horse, a rare instance where a statue of a animal has  been erected in a city  and the area named after the animal. Next on guidance from the driver stopped at  Udaipur's landmark sweetshop  "JMB (Jayesh Misthan Bhandar)" in existence since 1964 and purchased some local sweets. Finally reached the city bus stand and strolled aimlessly in the vicinity and inquired the bus fares to Mumbai as in 2003 my entire travel was by road  through different bus's. Stopped at a "Motorcycle Rental Shop" and was surprised to note the hire charges for a "Royal Enfield" bike was a minimum of Rs 900/day .

One of the best maintained  train terminus

In Mumbai my 2 year old Royal Enfield sits in the garage like a museum exhibit  since after quitting  solo long distance biking trips i rarely use the bike as my home is my office cum residence. Finally after collecting my portable suitcase from the bus luggage counter  hired a rickshaw and travelled the short 1 km  distance to Udaipur railway station. Udaipur Railway station is one of the cleanest and best maintained in India. At 2100 hrs boarded  compartment "S5" of the "02902/ UD 2 BDTS SF Spl"  Udaipur to Bandra Terminus train and made myself comfortable  on seat N0 4.Felt i was travelling in the "Ladies Compartment" as the entire wing of my compartment was occupied by a group of ladies. On the request of a lady changed seats and slept on the top most berth which requires athletic scaling ability although a "Senior Citizen" myself .A almost sleepless night and at daybreak on Saturday(13/3/2021) it was tea as usual with Vada/Paav as breakfast cum lunch snack. Reached "Bandra Terminus" on scheduled time of 1330 hrs and to my horror had to walk almost 1 km from the train to the main exit/entrance gate of the terminus .Due to "Covid -19" Pandemic" health regulations all the exits of the station were shut and passengers had to pass through the main  station entrance/ exit gate where passengers were thermally screened for symptoms of "Covid-19".Finally after passing through the exit immediately hired a taxi at a rental of Rs 300  and to my amazement did a sightseeing tour of Khar/Bandra East, a area totally unknown to me   before finally reaching home at Old Prabhadevi road. The State of Rajasthan was no more a mystery to me and besides my severe leg pain was home lock, stock and barrel in one piece  .

Fortifications on the hill route to Chittorgarh Fort.