Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Pushkar fair :- Backpackers tour of the desert fair and Historical edifices.

A Photo shoot at the TAJ MAHAL, the monument of love.
A travel across Rajasthan and a visit to Agra.
Handling a young camel at the Pushkar Fair.


In November 2003 i decided to visit ,Udaipur Jaipur, Ajmer, Agra and Delhi, the main purpose being to experience the World famous "Pushkar Camel and cattle Fair" at Pushkar near Ajmer. Began my "Solo backpackers tour" on  Tuesday(4-11-2003) catching a luxury tourist bus to the lake city of Udaipur. It was a hectic journey to Udaipur with the bumpy roads adding to the discomfort making me realize that "trains" are the best commuter modes for long distance travel in India. Arrived at Udaipur city in the morning and did a complete tour of the city by evening, visiting famous landmarks like the "Lake palace" also known as the "Taj Mahal Lake palace hotel" situated on the "Pichola Lake" and made famous in the 1983 James Bond movie "Octopussy". Udaipur is also called the "Venice of the East" for its numerous lakes and forts. Visited the "City Palace Museum " situated on the East bank of lake Pichola which was initiated by Maharana Udai.Singh II when he shifted his capital from Chittorgarh  and founded Udaipur with this palace being gradually built over a period of 400 years by several rulers of the Mewar dynasty. The City Palace has a fusion of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture  and provides a panoramic view of the city. Later purchased a "Miniature replica painting" and as usual on all my tours, visited the local zoo. Next was a overnight journey to Ajmer by road, the city closest to Pushkar which is 14 Kms away and the location for the World's largest cattle and camel fair. Checked into a local lodge in Ajmer, parking my luggage and as usual , after a quick bath began my solo marathon walks in the city, exploring the place. Ajmer is a crowded city with narrow bazaar lanes and heavy traffic congestion due to narrow roads and pathways. Visited the Ana Sagar lake and the Daulat Bagh garden next to it, cooling off the evening in an open air restaurant in the main city. Early the next morning, caught the local bus at the market place and made my way to the "Pushkar Fair" which was a 5 day fair. On stepping out of the bus  was amazed at the mass of humanity meandering its way through the narrow lanes of Pushkar town situated around the "Pushkar lake".
PUSHKAR FAIR IN 2003 :- One of the Largest collection of Camels in Asia

                                     I made my way to the main grounds situated in the midst of desert land where the cattle, camels and horses had gathered along with their owners in tents. waiting to be purchased or exchanged or simply admired. This was the first instance in my life where i had seen such a huge amalgamation of camels of various shapes, sizes and owners. Special "camel races" were staged on the sidelines of tents for prospective buyers to determine a camels true potential.
A young camel jet black in colour at the Pushkar Fair.The average life expectancy of a camel is 40 to 50 years. A full-grown adult camel stands 1.85 m (6 ft 1 in) at the shoulder and 2.15 m (7 ft 1 in) at the hump. Camels can run at up to 65 km/h (40 mph) in short bursts and sustain speeds of up to 40 km/h (25 mph)."{CAMEL RACING" is a very popular traditional sport in Middle East country's. 

The shearing of camel fur as also the fitting of the "Camel Nose ring" were rituals that were performed in Pushkar, something rarely observed by a common tourist. Akin to horses witnessed the "BREAKING IN" of young camels by their handlers, a very cruel method to tourists and people unused to rustic life and farm animals maintenance. The young camels are bound by their front legs and beaten with a stick if they disobey certain commands.
"Albino Marwari breed horses".

                                                                                                             The entire sand dunes resembled a mass of animals and humanity with tents spread over the entire vicinity. as usual, i went camera trigger happy, clicking random photographs as did the horde of tourists who make this yearly pilgrimage to observe this World famous camel and cattle fair. The proverb,"Travel is the best teacher" proved true as i realized my ignorance on cattle , horses and camels although having been a "Wild-life and Pet enthusiast". 
Domestic cattle at the "Pushkar Fair".

More of  a theoretical "Text book and television knowledge" rather than practically interacting with cattle, horse and camel owners. Was more into "Pets ownership and study" having won numerous dog shows with my late deceased pedigreed dachshund, "Lucky" , at present owner of an albino Siamese cat "Trixie" whom i adopted as a pet shop discard and "Mittoo", one of India's best talking parakeets. Interacting with various camel, horse and cattle traders as well as owners surprised me at the exorbitant cost of some of these animal species. Had a camel ride and later visited the main fair ground where events are organized for the benefit of tourists.
Beautiful demonstration of a "HORSE DANCE" at the Pushkar Fair.

The "Horse dance" was unique as also the "camel Dance" and later was a fascinating competition for the longest human mustache with tourists flocking to get themselves photographed with the winner, Mr Ramnath.Chowdhury.
The  next day  local Rajastan newspaper clipping of a lady tourist  with  the "MAN WITH THE LONGEST MOUSTACHE", Mr Ramnath.Chowdhury
                                                      I took the autograph of the winner of the "Longest Mustache contest" Mr Ramnath.Chowdhury, a real-life fascinating village personality with a unique claim to fame and also the ability to play two flutes through the two different nasal openings of his nose. When not displaying his "MUSTACHE" for public amusement he normally keeps it wrapped up on the top of his head, same covered by a "Rajasthani turbaned cap". Spent the entire day loafing around the town , visiting various handicraft stalls also visiting the holy lake, later getting my ear pierced for a " Ear ring". Savored the local cuisine of vegetarian food and later observed a cow milking contest where the cow with the highest output of milk was awarded a prize. The cattle and camel shows were similar to "Dog shows" organized in City's, only difference being the different types of contest shows and a different breed of animal .Later at dusk various entertainment shows and some musical concerts were organized on the main ground in front of the "Grandstand". Returned back to my hotel in Ajmer late in the night and after a good nights sleep made my way to Pushkar the next day. This time i decided to visit the town city encompassing the holy Pushkar lake and hence on alighting from the bus took the town detour instead of the fair. There were lots of tourists and the guide directions to various cultural events being held in the town were displayed at important locations, hence made my way to a temple where the early morning temple dance ritual was to be conducted. As tourists we were told to observe certain disciplinary customs and explained the entire ritual by the local temple guide. After observing this temple dance ritual i made my way along with the dense mass of pilgrims and tourists through the narrow streets of Pushkar town, a small place built entirely around the holy Pushkar river.
"SNAKE CHARMERS" at Pushkar Fair.
                                                                                                                               Numerous pilgrims have a dip in the Pushkar lake, offering alms at temples and the most auspicious temple is the "Brahma Temple" situated at the end of the town road on the way to the the fair and the desert sand dunes. Entry to the "Brahma Temple" is restricted to Hindu's and hence i didn't visit this most auspicious and religious pilgrimage temple of the Hindu's in Pushkar town. After touring the entire town which is not very big, getting familiarized to the locations in just 2 days, i returned to Ajmer by the local bus. Normally on " Solo Backpacker tours" i usually wear "cargo shorts" as they are convenient and hardy hence on my visit to the World famous Muslim Dargah Sharif of Muinuddin Chisti at Ajmer didn't change into  formal trousers. The route to the Dargah is through narrow alleyways of Ajmer city and on reaching the Dargah i was told that tourists were allowed but in formal attire and hence was given a "Lungi" to cover my "cargo shorts". This was the first instance in my life of having visited a "Muslim dargah" and that too one of the holiest in the Muslim World, visited by leaders of Muslim country's whenever they visit India. Although "Haji Ali Durgah" is a few kilometres from my residence in Mumbai have  never ever seen the inside of a "Muslim Durgah" and after a brief visit to the main Dargah mausoleum of Muinuddin Chisti made my way back to the hotel. Spent the entire day touring the city. Caught the train to Jaipur city the next morning and toured the entire "Rose Pink city", visiting the famous "Birla Temple" and also historical sites like the "Hawa Mahal" and "Jantar Mantar". Left Jaipur the same evening by bus to Agra arriving early in the morning and checking in at the "Essar Hotel", a backpackers budget hotel.
Typical  tourist photoshoot at the "TAJ MAHAL" in Agra.


At the "TAJ MAHAL", a wonder of the World. To be seen personally for appreciating its wonder.

                  
World leaders , celebrities' and the common face in the crowd tourist do not leave the "TAJ MAHAL' without a photo-shoot for memories of having visited one of the "Wonders of the World".

 Visited the "Taj Mahal" and was absolutely dazed by its beauty having been fed theoretically on its history but viewing it for the first time in my life .In the early morning sunlight the "Taj Mahal" resembled a " White Marble Mirage", such was its unique glister and glowing beauty amidst the garden lawns.Got myself photographed for posterity and a lifetime memory by an "Instant camera photographer", the normal routine of every visitor to the "Taj Mahal". Later in the day visited the ,Diwan-i-Khas and Agra Fort practically visualizing the history text books. The next morning made my journey to the "Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary(Keoladeo Ghana National park)" about 60 Kms by bus from Agra.The park is not very large being less than 30 Sq Kms and most of it "Marshy waterlogged land" with paved road paths in-between for tourists and cycles, cycles being the normal mode of transport within the bird park. I was lucky to observe a pair of "Sarus Cranes" along with its chick foraging in the marshy land akin to cattle, real large birds. Read about the "Bird Shooting " exploits of former Maharajahs and British royalty at the "Bharatpur sanctuary" and realized the reasons of extinctions and bird population declines due to human colonization and hunting. Lord Linlithgow once shot 4000 birds at Bharatpur in a "SINGLE DAY" while the last "BIRD SHOOT" was in 1964 by General Chowdhury, excesses that seem exaggerations or sheer lies in the 21st century of gradual bird and animal wild-life extinction. Arrived at Agra in the evening and telephoned home getting the worst message that my Mum's "Breast Cancer" had relapsed and she was again terminally ill, forcing me to cancel my tour to Delhi and return home.